How to Eliminate Bulk | Bernina Sew n Quilt Studio

Are you trying to sew garments with thick fabrics that can have problems with bulk? Bernina Sew n Quilt Studio has gathered some tips to help!

Whenever you work with thicker fabrics, like fleece, wool, or double knits, you need to know how to manage bulk. Eliminating bulk will result in a more professional and comfortable garment.

Bulk is a problem that happens when you put more than two layers of heavy fabric together. A basic opened and pressed seam makes four layers of fabric. Facings can result in more than five layers of fabric. Thankfully, there are several options to manage bulk when you sew clothing.

Use lightweight facing.
When it’s time for facings, choose a lightweight fabric in the same color as the fashion fabric. The better the color match, the less noticeable this trick will be.

Utilize lapped seams.
Intersecting seams are a big challenge with heavy fabrics. Use lapped seams in place of conventional ones for less bulk. You can use lapped seams with non-fraying fabric like fleece, faux or real leathers, and some heavy knits.

Grade those seam allowances! Learn more here.

Create cool collars.
Square corners and collar points can invite bulk issues. Just like facings, you might use a lightweight fabric for the underside of collars instead of fashion fabric.

Don’t interface sharp collar points or square corner points. Prior to interfacing these spots, trim off the points of the interfacing to eliminate a layer.

Sew the seams and trim away the interfacing from your seam allowances. Go as close to the stitching line as possible. Then fuse the interfacing to the fabric.

Trim intersecting seams.
Anytime you work with heavy fabrics, remember to properly trim and grade your intersecting seams. You trim by cutting the seam allowances away close to the seam lines. Grading means you trim away one layer of the seam allowance at a time beginning with the layer that will be the right side of the garment.

Read more about seams and stitches for garments here.

Do you have any special tips for managing bulk?

We hope to see you this week at the Studio. Make sure you look at our upcoming events calendar!